Day at the Beach: Organic produce and counter-culture in Bolinas

Bolinas, California is a faraway place. Technically, it's only 25 miles from the Marin Headlands Hostel and 19 miles from the Point Reyes Hostel, but it's as far away from the rest of Marin County as you can get. This tiny, unincorporated town without a mayor or a city hall maintains such an indie, insular culture, and an obvious aversion to non-native species, that it's literally off-the-map. But don't let any of that scare you -- Marin County is filled with nice (albeit a bit eccentric) individuals and Bolinas is no exception. Just be advised to tread lightly in this small community of close-knit locals, pay close attention to your map (street signs are unreliable), and come ready to experience some decidedly un-Hollywood California beach culture.

The residents of Bolinas are famous for taking down their highway sign so many times that there is no longer a sign on the road marking the turn-off for the town; the only "Bolinas" sign in Bolinas now hangs in their musuem. Still, Bolinas is hard to miss -- it's just off of coastal Highway 1. This little beach community has a population of only 2,500, a small handful of local businesses, and a beautiful stretch of sandy beaches dotted with surfers and seashells.

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Northern California beaches may not be sunny and tropical, but the sweepingly blue Pacific with its fresh ocean air is a rejuvenating experience in any climate. In west Marin, Bolinas Beach is a favorite among beachgoers and novice surfers. Bolinas Beach is actually the unofficial, collective name for a stretch of long, narrow beaches tucked away under seaside cliffs. Brighton Beach, part of the loosely defined Bolinas Beach area, begins where Brighton Avenue terminates; it has one of the only public bathrooms and is a popular spot if you want to stay relatively immobile and sunbathe under a layer of sweaters. If you prefer some exercise, many people have luck collecting shells while walking along the shore. However, one of biggest draws to the beaches in Bolinas is actually the sheltered waters that experience a relatively small surfbreak -- perfect for learning to surf.

Eat + Drink

If a day at the beach has tired you out, head into town for a snack or an after-sunset libation. The old-hippie-new-agey vibe in Bolinas is well illustrated in their innovative, organic food options. For a sit-down spot, try the Coast Cafe. The ambiance is cozy and casual but the food is very sophisticated –- they serve an organic, seasonal menu that features the freshest ingredients from Northern California's farmers and fisherman. For a livelier scene, the town saloon, Smileys Schooners, has live music and open mic nights Thursdays - Sundays. The hotel and saloon was founded in 1851 and, unlike the more bohemian features of Bolinas, this old-time, small-town establishment is charmingly vintage.

If you find yourself in need of a little nibble, or a picnic to pack for a day at the beach, the Bolinas People's Store is not a typical grocery store, but it's a place that only stocks organic and sustainably sourced products so it's a great spot to grab a snack. No trip to Bolinas would be complete without a purchase from an organic food store (some locals claim Bolinas invented organic farming). Also, though this may go without saying, their organic, gluten-free granola selection is totally amazing; be sure to pick up a bag that's extra crunchy.

For an even more Bolinas experience, stop by the Gospel Flat Farms "honor-system" vegetable market and buy some extremely fresh, garden-grown produce. There are no attendants at the stand, they're all busy in the fields -- simply weigh your own food and pay for the purchase. The farm stand is a permanent food-art installation that, according to its owners, "is the culmination of our care and creativity in the fields that lie just behind the stand."

Shop

In keeping with the laissez-faire theme of this laid back community, the Bolinas Book Exchange is a free bookstore/lending library that is almost always unattended. Bibliophiles will enjoy pursuing the random collections at a leisurely pace. Posted on the door is a donations box with a suggested price list, drop in a few dollars if you leave with a novel, a DIY gardening book, a socialist manifesto, or if you just enjoyed the visit. Next find Chameleon, a vintage thrift store that has been lovingly described as "funkedelic."

Observe

Bolinas offers many treasures; as a creative and counter-culture enclave, there's no shortage of color in this town. There are a few art galleries in Bolinas, as well as the Bolinas Fine Arts Museum, which boasts work from many prominent Marin and Bay Area artists. All of the art from the museum speaks to the quiet, natural beauty of Marin County, but the apex of the artful and whimsical splendor of Bolinas can be found in the town's landmark Free Box. It's a rainbow-hued shed that offers an assorted collection of free, donated items, and it serves as a living vestige to the vibrant, if off-beat, way of life that is so well preserved here.